US 17, the coast road since 1735
US 17 follows the colonial Kings Highway through the marsh kingdom: Calabash fried seafood, the Grand Strand's neon, rice-empire ruins, sweetgrass basket stands in unbroken West African lineage, Charleston's complicated grandeur and Savannah's haunted squares. The whole route runs inside the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor — the living culture is the main attraction.
📍 Gullah Geechee Corridor markers and South Carolina's roadside histories line the route end to end.
Film-town Wilmington, Calabash's fried-seafood fleet, Myrtle's gloriously unrepentant kitsch, and the hammocks of 'arrogantly shabby' Pawleys.
'Hollywood East': Dawson's Creek and One Tree Hill pilgrims still walk the riverwalk. The battleship North Carolina broods across the water; Britt's Donuts (1939, glazed only, cash only) fries at Carolina Beach.
The town that named a cooking style: lightly battered, flash-fried, served in heaps where the fleet ties up. Jimmy Durante's sign-off — 'Goodnight, Mrs. Calabash' — may or may not be about a local café owner; the town has chosen to believe.
The self-styled mini-golf capital of the world (50-ish courses, several with volcanoes) and the Gay Dolphin Gift Cove, a multi-level gift-shop labyrinth since 1946. Surrender to it for exactly one evening.
Anna Hyatt Huntington's 1931 sculpture garden spread through old rice fields — one of the great collections of American figurative sculpture, with live oaks doing the staging.
'Arrogantly shabby' since the 1700s: weathered cottages, rope hammocks (invented here by a riverboat captain), and the Gray Man — the ghost whose appearance before hurricanes is considered actionable local forecasting.
Georgetown's rice-empire clock tower, McClellanville's shrimp docks, the sweetgrass stands of Mount Pleasant — then Charleston, where the war began and the table never ended.
Under the 1842 clock tower: how the Lowcountry's rice empire was built on the engineering knowledge of enslaved West Africans from the Rice Coast — the wealth, and its true authors, in one room.
A shrimping village under cathedral oaks — T.W. Graham's fries the day's catch; Hurricane Hugo's 1989 surge line is still pointed out on porch posts.
Gullah 'basket ladies' sell coiled sweetgrass from roadside stands along 17 — a craft in unbroken lineage from West Africa, now in the Smithsonian. Buy from the maker; the price honors generations.
Rainbow Row to the Battery, Philip Simmons's wrought-iron gates, Fort Sumter offshore where it all began (April 12, 1861). Eat the whole story: Bowens Island's oyster shack on the creek, Bertha's Kitchen's okra soup — both James Beard classics.
The wild ACE Basin marshes, Old Sheldon's ruined columns, Conroy's Beaufort, Penn Center's living Gullah legacy — and into Savannah's squares.
A live oak perhaps 400–500 years old, shading 17,000 square feet — limbs like whales sounding through the earth. Free, and quieter than any cathedral.
Brick columns open to the sky — burned by the British in 1779, wrecked again after the Civil War. Spanish moss, birdsong, and the South's whole arc in one ruined nave.
Pat Conroy's town and Hollywood's favorite porch: The Big Chill house, Forrest Gump's locations, The Prince of Tides everywhere. Horse carriages under the oaks of The Point; the Conroy Literary Center holds the words.
One of the first schools for freed slaves (1862), later the only Southern retreat where Dr. King's interracial team could safely meet — his cottage remains. The beating heart of Gullah Geechee culture; the Saturday fish fry is church.
Twenty-two squares of haunted urbanism; Bonaventure Cemetery's Midnight in the Garden mystique (the Bird Girl now lives safely in the Telfair); Mrs. Wilkes's communal boardinghouse table (queue early); Leopold's cone for the walk; Pin Point's oyster-shucking Gullah museum just south.
More in the Atlantic Coast: Golden Isles & the First Coast · Outer Banks & the Sound Country · US 301: The Ghost Road · Sherman's Carolinas Campaign · The Inner Banks · The Northern Neck · VA 5 & the Colonial Parkway · US 13: The Eastern Shore