Ozarks, Ouachitas & the Bootheel
earthquake country and throwed rolls
The Blues Highway runs both directions out of Memphis. North, US 61 crosses the Arkansas line into Missouri's Bootheel, where the 1811-12 New Madrid earthquakes, the strongest ever recorded east of the Rockies, made the Mississippi run backward and rang church bells on the Atlantic seaboard, or so the newspapers swore. Add a jewel-box deco bus station, rolls thrown at your head in Sikeston, and a floodwall painted with the river's whole story.
📍 New Madrid's museum and river deck carry the quake story; Trail of Tears State Park marks the winter crossings.
Cotton flats and blues ghosts north through Osceola to Blytheville's deco Greyhound gem.
A restored 1937 Art Moderne bus depot, porcelain panels and neon intact, among the finest small deco stations left in America. Worth the block-long detour on principle.
Caruthersville's river landing and the seismic capital of the Midwest, where the observation deck watches the bend that once flowed the wrong way.
Ground zero for the 1811-12 quakes that redrew the river and created Reelfoot Lake across it. The deck stares down the bend the Mississippi briefly ran up.
An 1859 merchant's mansion of cypress and imported furnishings, a time capsule of the Bootheel's river-trade money on the eve of the war.
Sikeston's flying-carbohydrate institution, then the Cherokee crossing at Trail of Tears and Cape's painted floodwall.
Home of Throwed Rolls since 1942: hot yeast rolls launched across the dining room to anyone who raises a hand, with pass-around sides until you surrender.
Where Cherokee detachments crossed the frozen Mississippi in the brutal winter of 1838-39; the bluff overlook and Bushyhead memorial hold the weight.
Twenty-four murals along the downtown floodwall painting the river's story from the mound builders to the flood years. The wall works; the art is the bonus.
More in the Ozarks, Ouachitas & the Bootheel: Arkansas 7: The Scenic Seven · Crowley's Ridge Parkway · The Arkansas Delta · Talimena & the Ouachitas · The Pig Trail & Eureka